After leaving one ryokan in Nagano we were on our way to another, this time in Kyoto. We arrived at the historic and well regarded Kyoto Nanzenji Garden Ryokan Yachiyo, established in 1915.
After jumping off the Shinkansen we quickly found ourselves in a comfortable taxi, less than 20 minutes from the hotel. Using Google translate (a very useful app) to chat with our driver (who was a big fan of the Mad Max movies) we heard we would be staying in a special cultural area of Kyoto. We originally chose the hotel for proximity to the Philosopher’s walk, but we found the area offers a lot more.
Yachiyo upholds an authentic experience, it is in the ‘Nanzenji Villa District—Japan’s premier enclave. Once a retreat for Meiji leaders and home to gardens by master Ogawa Jihei.’ As you arrive it’s a shoes off – slippers on, policy. Our footwear is kept in a little shoe library, whether you are coming or going you receive or deliver your room key and when in the hotel you’ll enjoy the clean and orderly quietude.
Breakfast (Western or Japanese, we favoured Japanese) was included and every morning the kind staff offered the kids little bowls of fish food to wander off into the garden to feed the very happy Koi in the pond which the dining room overlooks. As Australians in Japan we have missed coffee a little bit. However M Stand across the road from Yachiyo was fantastic, despite only opening at 9am. Dinner at the hotel was opt-in. And, as we were staying in the hubbub of Kyoto we decided to have one night in, which was a fantastic Wagyu Beef Sukiyaki overlooking the wonderful gardens.
Yachiyo is walking distance or a short taxi ride to many temples, art galleries, the Philosopher’s Walk, Kyoto Zoo and fine dining so there was plenty to get amongst. Moreover all the drivers seem to know of the historic Yachiyo hotel, so it’s easy to navigate back ‘home’ when we need to.
We really loved the local eateries, especially bistro&wine, a French hole in the wall place remarkably run by two people, host and chef, with world class wine and food. Stopping in for lunch we booked a table at hatted ristorante DONO, this was so fantastic we were inclined to book again (but they don’t do Sundays). And to add something different into the mix, a stone’s throw from the hotel is Dragon Burger which is casual and but really hit the spot.
Luckily we booked two rooms with unique features. The Japanese-Style Suite with Garden View and Open-Air Bath was surrounded by magnificent zen garden with old cared for ornamental trees, a little bridge and stone pathways with windows on three sides of the room (including the bath) it was perfect to gaze upon with a book or watch children play outside while you rest in the room; a mod-con that most contemporary hotel rooms don’t have!
The rooms were traditional and chic, again we enjoyed sleeping on the floor beds which were prepared for us each day. The other room was Japanese-Style Luxury Room with Patio and Open-Air Bath which was a little more modern with higher beds and laundry facilities, both a good amenity for travellers at the tail end of a trip. While there is a public onsen available here both of our rooms came with a private bath overlooking the sumptuous gardens, so that was our go-to.
While Yachiyo is an older establishment we couldn’t go past the excellent location, being close to fine dining and temples, and the majestic garden right outside our traditional sliding doors.